We highly recommend the river cruise. The river was cleaned up a few years back and you can begin to see tourist development along the banks. The boats take you further upstream where you can catch a glimpse of one of the oldest kampong villages in Melaka, still a vibrant community. You can also look up and see the ill-fated monorail system on which the trains apparently got stuck at the opening and have never moved since. The boats ply up and down through the day and in the evening. It’s worth experiencing both times of day. Incidentally, the river is now only one third of its original size.